After New York and London, now it’s the turn of Milan. Milan Fashion Week is another of the most anticipated in the fashion calendar and italian elegance always converges with the latest trends. Gucci, Prada, Versace, Ferragamo, Max Mara or Armani, who presented their parade behind closed doors by the coronavirus alert, have gathered in the Italian fashion capital. Hera are the best shows seen in Milan.
Gucci. For this autumn/winter 2020/2021 collection, Alessandro Michele has delighting us with an absolutely fabulous show set a backstage illuminated with neon lights as a showcase. An incredible show in which the creative director wanted to pay homage to the fashion shows with #GucciTheRitual, inspired by the cinema of Federico Fellini and accompanied by the symphony of ravel’s Bolero. Looksfull of style and elegance, always with that baroque touch that characterizes it. True to its recharged and full of color style, the brand offers us risky and eye-catching combinations, a mixture of fabrics and different colors. Lace tartan print, velvet dresses adorned with exaggerated collars as well as shirts, satin blouses with extra-large corduroy pants, ripped jeans with embroidered jackets and matching jacket looks with flower dresses.
Alberta Ferretti presented a collection in dark tones, along with a masterful contrast of vibrant colors intermixed. An ode to black that has been imposed on both leather fabrics and blazers as well as night designs in organza and tul. On the other hand, the mauve, red and pink tones have been taken over of blouses and dresses with ruffles and dramatic pleats. As a novelty, the designer bets on new and very eighty silhouettes, such as tailorsuits with short jackets and slouchy pants, accompanied by handkerchiefs to decorate the neck of the models. To close the parade, the designer offered proposals full of rhinestones, glittering monkeys, fringes everywhere and dark dresses riddled with ruffles to the ground.
Lucie and Luke Meier, creative directors of Jill Sander, are betting on minimalist dominance, throwing a clear message on the catwalk and it is that less is more and subtle details make a difference. Neutral colors, knitwear and integrated accessories were their identity signs very similar to the tastes of the Italian house.
Moncler presented a collection in which he again extrapolated ski outerwear to the runway, with the well-known Genius initiative. The show was set in a warehouse where many people were overwhelmed, between strobe lights and pulsating music.The most anticipated collection was that of Jonathan Anderson, Moncler Genius’s new recruit, who stood out for his pleated shorts for men and women, flexible hats and oversized scarves, all made of feather edift material.
Max Mara. Creative director Ian Griffiths’ autumn/winter 2020 collection stood out for its sobriety, simplicity and minimalism accented by clean silhouettes and pure lines. Tailor jackets and coats in which colors such as grey and camel predominated and also combined with striped prints. As a novelty, coats made of hair or parcas in key oversize with hood and as a proposal for night-style styling, there are velvet fabrics, transparencies and sleeves grumbled in blazers that work in dress as key trends. Totally opposite was the Moschino show. This time, Jemery Scott has been inspired by Marie Antoinette and her dressmaker, Rose Bertin, as currentinfluencerswho marked courtesan fashion. Scott turned the catwalk into a fun setting in which he recreated a performance of past and present opulence with colorful theatrical pieces in pastel shades with flowers and the iconic logo.
Versace. For the first time, Donatella Versace presented her collection of women and men together in a demonstration of hyperfemininity and masculinity. Shoulders and hips too exaggerated marked in dark tones combined with floral and zebra prints. We also saw skater and pencil skirts, glitter-packed or mesh dresses, oversized accessories, lots of leather and tartan and retro glasses, all with the Versace logo or its distinctive gold hardware.
Etro. The bohemian style was the essence of Kean Etro’s autumn 2020 collection who presented an earth color palette, as well as prints that praised him. Paliacates, belts and boots were the star accessories for a boho chic look.The designer defined the looks of this collection as haute bohemian, a balance between elegance and inspiration in designs as well as classic textures, with the irreverence of the bohemian look, which will always be a timeless trend.
Prada, who recently announced the appointment of Belgian designer Raf Simmons, as the company’s creative co-director, unveiled his “Surreal Glamor” collection, a meditation on femininity. A collection that celebrates women in all their splendor with a modern and very modern style. Miucca Prada presented a show in which we saw several pieces that, without a doubt, will become trends next season: Pencil skirts, padded blazers and XXL combined perfectly with jeans and boots maintaining their sustainable spirit, oversized vests and dresses translucent with a sporty look that is combined with tights and crop tops. As a fetish piece, the new pumps with fringe bracelet were presented and, as a must-have, the microbags in long necklaces, which come to be imposed after the trend of fanny packs.
Ferragamo bet on a very classic and elegant esthetic in which neutral colors in tailoring costumes, vests, dresses and skirts stood out; and a festive proposal inspired by the years 30 in which the fringe was the protagonists. Philosophy proposed a collection with mini dresses and high boots, feathers that matched with steamy boho-inspired dresses and costumes in 70s reflection satin, as well as many fringes. For her side, Fendi‘s creative director, Silvia Venturini presented a very feminine collection in which lace, leather and volume were the stars with a color palette of grays, nude and a lot of black.
The Milan Fashion Week closes with an extraordinary lesson of mastery and elegance at the height of the always high expectations generated by its celebration.
